![]() The second part is if you filled the reservoir cold to the max line before and now it’s alerting low level while driving, then that is not normal. Related, the cap can still be faulty, depending on the behavior. The normal fluid flow that has been repeated by members here when opening the cap while the engine is warm/hot. Just smell your oil once in a while using the dipstick to double check it doesn’t smell sweet. It’s a narrow window from the dash needle showing right at the middle to it popping up to overheating….not progressive at all.ītw, if all looks normal after checking these, maybe you are good to go. You should hear the fan kick in to help control these temps. IIRC, if you have the A/C on the coolant temp will be controlled below 200F and read as high as 220F without the A/C compressor activated. ![]() The middle temp range is very wide as you will witness with the OBDII coolant temp readings. But the other checks will help eliminate other causes. ![]() Even if you replaced the coolant cap 2 years ago, it could still be defective. Also scan if you have a bad fan code whereas driving is enough airflow to keep the dash coolant needle temp in the middle and it isn’t hot enough to push above the threshold of showing overheating. I would observe the cooling temp via the OBDII while driving normally. The next steps I would take are to pressure test the cooling system and ensure you don’t have minor leaks, especially those plastic crossover pipes and the o-rings. There are theories of why, but weird things happen in the real world. Another was weird due to the thermostat, where coolant circulating was being restricted in flow due to the t-stat being partially open. One time, an o-ring was seeping without notice and opening the cap brought a vacuum so coolant rushed back. So, I had to figure out weird behaviors before in a cooling systems. You are well aware of all the associated parts and have already gotten amazing mileage out of your 3.2.
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